The Alcántara Bastion It is living — or rather, stone — proof that they didn’t mess about here. With its sharp angles, you realise that in the 17th century They got serious about defending the border.

Because, of course, Alcántara wasn’t just any old place: Roman bridge, a strategic crossing over the River Tagus, on the border with Portugal… in short, the perfect setting for warfare. So they built this defensive system in accordance with the bastion-style, that military design which looks as though it’s straight out of a manual on how to withstand a siege in just a few steps.

Here, right in the heart of La Raya, the Portuguese neighbours (and vice versa) would think twice before popping over to borrow some salt. The walls tell you, without saying a word, that there were once cannons here, sleepy guards and more than a few night-time scares. And as you gaze towards the bridge and the River Tagus, you think: right, now I understand why they built it so imposing.