We know that Guadalupe is a magnet for visitors and onlookers. And it’s not just the monastery —which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site—, but also its urban fabric. It is certainly a site of cultural interest since 1943 for a reason: its network of narrow streets is a a typically working-class urban maze which flourished on the back of the pilgrimages.

Are you on Calle Sevilla? Or perhaps on Nueva de los Capellanes? Now look up: yes, they’re traditional houses with chestnut beams and cantilevered balconies which almost touch one another above your head. Its arcades sheltered the shops centuries ago, whilst the pilgrims sought shelter in the town’s old hospitals.

An interesting fact: Isabella the Catholic used to call her «paradise» and it was here that the first chillies and tomatoes to arrive from the New World were grown. It’s not just stone; it smells of black pudding, of muédago bread rolls, of a bonfire…